Do you have Stubborn Pigmentation or Melasma?

Understanding pigmentation begins with education — it’s the key to managing and improving even the most stubborn concerns. While pigmentation can be persistent, the more we understand its causes and contributing factors, the more effectively we can treat and prevent it.

Understanding YOUR Pigmentation

  • Every skin is unique — and understanding how your skin responds to sun exposure, inflammation, and treatment is essential in managing its health. One of the most clinically recognised systems for categorising skin types is the Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale. This classification helps skin professionals assess how much melanin your skin naturally produces and how it reacts to UV radiation.

    What Is the Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale?

    Developed by dermatologist Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick, this scale categorises skin into six types based on its response to sun exposure, genetic background, and tanning/burning tendencies:

    • Type I – Very fair skin, always burns, never tans. Typically has red or blonde hair and light eyes.

    • Type II – Fair skin, burns easily, tans minimally.

    • Type III – Light to medium skin, sometimes burns, gradually tans.

    • Type IV – Olive or light brown skin, rarely burns, tans easily.

    • Type V – Brown skin, very rarely burns, tans readily and deeply.

    • Type VI – Deeply pigmented dark brown to black skin, never burns, tans very easily.

    Understanding your Fitzpatrick type is more than knowing how you tan — it informs how your skin may respond to:

    • Sun damage & pigmentation

    • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

    • Treatment strength & recovery times

    • Barrier function & melanin activity

    How Melanin Is Produced in the Skin

    Melanin is the pigment that gives skin, hair, and eyes their colour. It's produced by specialised skin cells called melanocytes, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Here’s a simplified overview of the process:

    1. Stimulation:
      When skin is exposed to UV radiation, trauma, hormones, or inflammation, it stimulates melanocytes to produce more melanin as a natural protective response.

    2. Melanin Synthesis (Melanogenesis):
      Melanocytes convert the amino acid tyrosine into melanin through a multi-step enzymatic process. This results in two main types of melanin:

      • Eumelanin (brown-black pigment)

      • Pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment)

    3. Transfer to Skin Cells:
      Melanin is packaged into melanosomes and transferred to surrounding keratinocytes, where it forms a protective barrier over the cell’s nucleus to shield DNA from UV damage.

    4. Visible Pigment:
      The more active your melanocytes are — due to genetics, environment, or hormonal triggers — the more visible pigment you’ll see on the skin’s surface.

    Why It Matters

    Darker Fitzpatrick types (IV–VI) naturally produce more melanin and have more active melanocytes. While this offers better natural sun protection, it also means a higher risk of hyperpigmentation following trauma, inflammation, or inappropriate treatment. Conversely, lighter skin types (I–III) are more prone to sunburn and DNA damage, increasing the risk of early ageing and skin cancers.

  • Hyperpigmentation is a common skin concern characterised by the darkening of specific areas of the skin due to an overproduction of melanin — the pigment responsible for skin colour. While it can affect all skin types, it often presents more prominently in medium to deeper skin tones. To effectively manage and treat hyperpigmentation, it is essential to first understand the clinical triggers that contribute to its development.

    1. UV Radiation (Sun Exposure):
    Ultraviolet (UV) light is one of the most significant contributors to hyperpigmentation. UV exposure stimulates melanocyte activity, leading to increased melanin synthesis as the skin attempts to protect itself from damage. This includes sunspots, freckles, and worsening of existing pigmentation.

    2. Inflammation (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation - PIH):
    Inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, and dermatitis can trigger a melanocyte response, resulting in darkened patches once the inflammation subsides. PIH is especially common in darker skin types.

    3. Hormonal Changes (Melasma):
    Fluctuations in hormones, particularly oestrogen and progesterone, can stimulate excess melanin production. This is commonly seen in pregnancy, during the use of oral contraceptives, or hormone replacement therapy. Melasma often appears symmetrically on the face.

    4. Heat Exposure:
    Heat alone — even without sun exposure — can trigger pigmentation by stimulating melanocyte activity. This includes hot showers, steam rooms, or even excessive exercise in heat-prone environments.

    5. Medications & Photosensitisers:
    Certain medications, including antibiotics, chemotherapy agents, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), and some acne treatments, can cause photosensitivity or directly trigger pigmentation. Always disclose current medications to your skin therapist.

    6. Skin Trauma or Injury:
    Cuts, burns, friction, waxing, and even aggressive skincare treatments can result in PIH, particularly if barrier repair is compromised during healing.

    7. Genetic Predisposition:
    Individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV–VI have a higher density of active melanocytes and are more prone to developing pigmentation irregularities. Genetics can also influence how skin responds to injury or inflammation.

    8. Environmental Aggressors & Pollution:
    Airborne pollutants and environmental toxins generate oxidative stress, which can worsen pigmentation over time. This leads to a dull, uneven skin tone and long-term skin barrier disruption.

    9. Endocrine & Medical Disorders:
    Underlying conditions such as Addison’s disease, polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), or thyroid dysfunction can influence pigmentation through hormonal or metabolic pathways.

    10. Inappropriate Skincare or Cosmetic Use:
    Using harsh products, over-exfoliating, or incorrect active ingredients (especially without professional guidance) can lead to irritation-induced pigmentation or worsen existing conditions.

  • Preventing pigmentation and premature ageing is far more effective than correcting it later — and consistent sun protection is the cornerstone of skin longevity. At Soho Skin Club, we take a proactive approach to preserving skin health, minimising triggers, and preventing the onset or recurrence of hyperpigmentation and sun damage.

    Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF50+ — Your First Line of Defence

    UV radiation is the most powerful external trigger for pigmentation, collagen breakdown, and cellular DNA damage. Even on cloudy days or when indoors near windows, UVA rays can penetrate and cause long-term damage.

    • SPF50+ broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) rays.

    • It should be applied every morning as the final step in your routine, regardless of weather or season.

    • Don’t forget high-risk areas: around the eyes, lips, ears, neck, and décolletage.

    Reapplying SPF — Where Most People Go Wrong

    SPF is not a once-a-day product. For optimal protection:

    • Reapply every 2 hours when outdoors or exposed to light.

    • Reapply after swimming, sweating, or towelling off.

    • Use a powder, mist, or lightweight SPF product to layer over makeup throughout the day.

    Without proper reapplication, your skin is left vulnerable — even with the best skincare routine.

    Targeting Melanin at the Source: Tyrosinase Inhibitors

    In addition to physical sun protection, we use topical ingredients that inhibit melanin production at the enzymatic level. These are known as tyrosinase inhibitors — and they're critical for both preventing and treating pigmentation.

    Key tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients:

    • Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): A powerful antioxidant that not only protects against UV-induced free radicals but also reduces excess melanin formation.

    • Niacinamide: Helps reduce the transfer of melanin to skin cells and calms inflammation.

    • Kojic Acid, Arbutin, and Licorice Root Extract: Natural pigment inhibitors that support even skin tone.

    • Tranexamic Acid: Targets both vascular and melanin-related pigmentation pathways.

    These ingredients work best when used consistently and in combination with professional treatment plans and SPF.

  • When it comes to treating stubborn pigmentation — whether from sun exposure, hormonal changes, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — we believe in delivering results-driven treatments that are both clinically effective and safe for all skin types and tones.

    At Soho Skin Club, we combine the power of BioRePeel with Medical Microneedling infused with Mesoestetic Depigmentation Solution to provide a tailored, advanced treatment approach that actively targets uneven skin tone without compromising skin integrity.

    BioRePeel: Gentle Yet Powerful Skin Renewal

    BioRePeel is a 35% TCA bi-phasic peel designed to exfoliate and regenerate the skin without the downtime typically associated with traditional chemical peels.

    • Safe for all Fitzpatrick types (I–VI), including melanin-rich and sensitive skin.

    • Works from within the skin, stimulating fibroblast activity and cellular turnover.

    • Improves pigmentation, texture, and dullness with minimal peeling or surface trauma.

    • Suitable year-round, even during warmer months.

    BioRePeel helps lift superficial pigmentation and primes the skin to absorb brightening actives more effectively in subsequent treatments.

    Medical Microneedling + Mesoestetic Depigmentation Solution

    Medical-grade microneedling uses precision-controlled microchannels to stimulate collagen production and enhance ingredient delivery deep into the skin. When paired with the Mesoestetic Depigmentation Solution, this treatment directly targets excess melanin at the source.

    • Formulated with tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatory agents, and skin-repairing peptides.

    • Reduces existing hyperpigmentation while preventing new pigment formation.

    • Especially effective on PIH, melasma, and sun damage.

    • Suitable for all skin types, including deeper Fitzpatrick tones, with minimal risk of post-treatment pigmentation.

    This dual treatment approach allows for progressive and safe pigment correction, without the risk of thermal damage or excessive exfoliation — making it a smart option for clients prone to pigmentation flare-ups.

    Safe, Clinical, Inclusive

    Pigmentation correction isn’t one-size-fits-all — especially when treating diverse skin tones. Our protocols are carefully chosen to ensure maximum safety and effectiveness for ALL skin types, particularly those more prone to inflammation and pigment retention.

    Whether you’re managing melasma, sun spots, or long-standing PIH, our BioRePeel and Medical Microneedling treatments offer an active, evidence-based solution tailored to your skin’s biology and recovery profile.

    Let Soho Skin Club support your skin journey — safely, professionally, and with lasting results.

  • Long-term skin health is achieved through consistency, professional guidance, and a tailored approach. This combines regular clinical treatments with an effective at-home skincare routine. At Soho Skin Club, we recommend maintenance treatments every 4–6 weeks to align with your skin’s natural renewal cycle and support ongoing results. This may include Hydrafacials for deep hydration and antioxidant infusion, Medik8 Professional Facials to calm and strengthen the skin, and intermittent BioRePeel or Medical Microneedling sessions to target pigmentation, texture, and collagen stimulation. These treatments work synergistically to keep your skin in its healthiest state while preventing future concerns. Equally important is a consistent home routine using professionally prescribed actives such as High quality clinical grade, Vitamin C, retinals, and daily SPF 50+. Which protect against environmental stress, regulate melanin production, and maintain the results of your in-clinic treatments. Together, professional maintenance and homecare create the foundation for clear, bright, resilient skin — now and into the future.

    At Soho Skin Club, we work with you to create a long-term skin strategy — blending professional treatments every 4–6 weeks with a daily home routine designed specifically for your skin type, goals, and concerns.

    By integrating Hydrafacials, Medik8 Pro Facials, and periodic BioRePeel and Skin Needling, we keep your skin in its optimal state — clear, bright, and resilient — while preventing future issues before they surface.

    Skin health is a lifelong investment, and we’re here to guide you at every stage.

Comparison of a woman's face before and after skin treatment, showing improved skin texture and reduced acne scars. The left side shows her face in September with visible acne scars and uneven skin, while the right side shows her face in December with clearer and smoother skin.

The Cellular Function of Melanin: How Pigment Is Produced in the Skin:

Melanin is the natural pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair, and eyes. Beyond aesthetics, it plays a critical protective role by shielding the skin’s DNA from UV-induced damage. Understanding how melanin is produced at a cellular level helps explain why certain skin types are more prone to pigmentation disorders — and how we can target these concerns effectively.

How Melanin Is Made: The Process of Melanogenesis

Melanin is produced by specialised skin cells called melanocytes, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. While melanocytes make up only about 5–10% of cells in this layer, they play a vital role in regulating skin tone and responding to environmental stressors.

The process of melanin production is known as melanogenesis, and it occurs in the following steps:

  1. Stimulation
    When the skin is exposed to UV radiation, inflammation, hormonal fluctuations, or trauma, melanocytes are activated by signalling molecules such as alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone).

  2. Tyrosinase Activation
    The key enzyme in melanogenesis is tyrosinase, which converts the amino acid tyrosine into dopaquinone, the first precursor in the melanin synthesis pathway. Tyrosinase activity is the rate-limiting step — meaning it controls how much melanin is ultimately produced.

  3. Melanin Synthesis
    Dopaquinone undergoes further chemical reactions to form two types of melanin:

    • Eumelanin: brown to black pigment, found predominantly in darker skin types.

    • Pheomelanin: yellow to red pigment, more prevalent in lighter skin types.

  4. Melanosome Transfer
    Melanin is stored in organelles called melanosomes, which are transported from the melanocytes to nearby keratinocytes (skin cells). These pigmented melanosomes position themselves over the nucleus of keratinocytes to protect DNA from UV damage — a process known as melanin capping.

What Triggers Excess Melanin Production?

While melanin production is a normal and protective response, overproduction — or uneven distribution — can lead to visible hyperpigmentation. Common triggers include:

  • UV Radiation: The most significant external trigger. UV exposure directly stimulates melanocyte activity and tyrosinase production.

  • Inflammation: Skin trauma, acne, eczema, and aggressive treatments can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

  • Hormonal Changes: Oestrogen and progesterone can increase melanocyte sensitivity, often seen in melasma during pregnancy or with oral contraceptives.

  • Heat Exposure: Heat alone (without UV) can also stimulate melanogenesis, especially in deeper skin tones.

  • Photosensitising Medications: Certain medications can make the skin more reactive to UV, leading to pigmentation.

  • Genetics: Individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV–VI have more active melanocytes and are naturally predisposed to higher melanin production.

By understanding the cellular function of melanin, we can better tailor treatments to regulate and correct pigment production safely and effectively. At Soho Skin Club, we use advanced & Medical Grade devices & treatments partnered with clinical grade Medik8 & Mesoestetic skin-care that target tyrosinase activity and inflammation — supporting even skin tone while respecting your skin’s natural biology.