Do you have Stubborn Pigmentation or Melasma?

Understanding pigmentation begins with education — it’s the key to managing and improving even the most stubborn concerns. While pigmentation can be persistent, the more we understand its causes and contributing factors, the more effectively we can treat and prevent it.

Understanding YOUR Pigmentation

Comparison of a woman's face before and after skin treatment, showing improved skin texture and reduced acne scars. The left side shows her face in September with visible acne scars and uneven skin, while the right side shows her face in December with clearer and smoother skin.

The Cellular Function of Melanin: How Pigment Is Produced in the Skin:

Melanin is the natural pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair, and eyes. Beyond aesthetics, it plays a critical protective role by shielding the skin’s DNA from UV-induced damage. Understanding how melanin is produced at a cellular level helps explain why certain skin types are more prone to pigmentation disorders — and how we can target these concerns effectively.

How Melanin Is Made: The Process of Melanogenesis

Melanin is produced by specialised skin cells called melanocytes, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. While melanocytes make up only about 5–10% of cells in this layer, they play a vital role in regulating skin tone and responding to environmental stressors.

The process of melanin production is known as melanogenesis, and it occurs in the following steps:

  1. Stimulation
    When the skin is exposed to UV radiation, inflammation, hormonal fluctuations, or trauma, melanocytes are activated by signalling molecules such as alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone).

  2. Tyrosinase Activation
    The key enzyme in melanogenesis is tyrosinase, which converts the amino acid tyrosine into dopaquinone, the first precursor in the melanin synthesis pathway. Tyrosinase activity is the rate-limiting step — meaning it controls how much melanin is ultimately produced.

  3. Melanin Synthesis
    Dopaquinone undergoes further chemical reactions to form two types of melanin:

    • Eumelanin: brown to black pigment, found predominantly in darker skin types.

    • Pheomelanin: yellow to red pigment, more prevalent in lighter skin types.

  4. Melanosome Transfer
    Melanin is stored in organelles called melanosomes, which are transported from the melanocytes to nearby keratinocytes (skin cells). These pigmented melanosomes position themselves over the nucleus of keratinocytes to protect DNA from UV damage — a process known as melanin capping.

What Triggers Excess Melanin Production?

While melanin production is a normal and protective response, overproduction — or uneven distribution — can lead to visible hyperpigmentation. Common triggers include:

  • UV Radiation: The most significant external trigger. UV exposure directly stimulates melanocyte activity and tyrosinase production.

  • Inflammation: Skin trauma, acne, eczema, and aggressive treatments can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

  • Hormonal Changes: Oestrogen and progesterone can increase melanocyte sensitivity, often seen in melasma during pregnancy or with oral contraceptives.

  • Heat Exposure: Heat alone (without UV) can also stimulate melanogenesis, especially in deeper skin tones.

  • Photosensitising Medications: Certain medications can make the skin more reactive to UV, leading to pigmentation.

  • Genetics: Individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV–VI have more active melanocytes and are naturally predisposed to higher melanin production.

By understanding the cellular function of melanin, we can better tailor treatments to regulate and correct pigment production safely and effectively. At Soho Skin Club, we use advanced & Medical Grade devices & treatments partnered with clinical grade Medik8 & Mesoestetic skin-care that target tyrosinase activity and inflammation — supporting even skin tone while respecting your skin’s natural biology.